Dr. Seth Bynum is an accomplished veterinarian, writer and photographer as well as an avid outdoorsman. His veterinary practice is currently limited to canine reproduction, although he loves tackling sporting dog and internal medicine cases at his home base of Hayden Pet Medical Center. A devout follower of the “Work to Live” philosophy, Dr. Bynum keeps his clinic schedule as lean as possible to pursue his passion for bird dogs and upland hunting. He can be found afield with a fly rod or shotgun, accompanied by his crew of German shorthaired pointers and a camera he lugs around.
Travel Tips For Road Trips With Your Hunting Dog
There’s hardly a better way to expose your dog to a variety of feathered species and diversity of habitat than loading up your gear and hitting the open road. For some, a bird hunting road trip is an annual tradition, but for others it’s a rare opportunity worthy of intense planning and preparation.
While anticipation is running high and the itinerary of your hunting adventure takes shape, it’s also prudent to sketch out a plan to care for your canine copilot along the journey. A few extra steps in preparation on their behalf can prevent or mitigate a disaster far from home.
Veterinary Care
As soon as you’ve got GPS pins dropped and routes drawn for your adventure, investigate the local veterinary clinics in the area. Take note of their locations, hours and emergency protocols, as many rural clinics now refer complicated (or all) cases to a regional emergency clinic on evenings or weekends. Store their numbers and addresses in your phone before leaving home. In many of the best hunting habitats, scant cell reception may suffice to make a timely emergency call, but it’s highly unlikely you’ll have enough bandwidth for browsing the web for a local clinic’s information, directions or Google reviews.
Food Is Fuel
Dog food is an essential item on your packing list, as it’s undeniably the cornerstone of keeping your hunting companion performing optimally for the entire adventure. I strongly recommend a commercial performance kibble in a safe and sturdy container year-round, but for me it’s a non-negotiable for traveling with dogs. Not only does dried kibble pack a lot of energy in a small morsel, it’s designed to maintain its integrity in the face of temperature and humidity swings of the hunting season. If your supply runs short, most of these performance kibbles can be purchased at retailers along your route or shipped quickly to your hotel courtesy of numerous online vendors.
Travel Stress
Even while relishing the opportunity to practice their life’s work on the road, hunting dogs are prone to travel stress amidst the excitement of an epic road trip. The gut is the quintessential stress organ for the canine, and even subtle stressors can tip the delicate balance of good and bad intestinal flora towards disaster. Novel terrain also offers dogs a fresh menu of new, tasty morsels to sample from the field – an indiscretion that can also contribute to digestion distress. Preventing diarrhea in a working dog should be a top priority while on your trip. Not only is diarrhea a fast track to dehydration for a dog performing at their peak, it’s incredibly challenging to clean on the road.
I reach for Purina’s FortiFlora probiotic in the days leading up to and throughout our trip to help fortify the population of beneficial bacteria in my dog’s gut and safeguard against travel stress. Among my team, the packets are unanimously tasty, and they’re easy to administer at mealtime. As an added bonus, FortiFlora’s high palatability helps entice dogs that are paradoxically disinterested in food after working hard into cleaning the bowl.
Protect Your Water
Fresh, clean water is an essential element for a safe and successful hunting road trip. Don’t skimp on the volume or rely on Mother Nature to provide a reliable supply. Store your water in multiple BPA-free containers in the event of a leak and offer it liberally to your team before, during and after the hunt. As the days get short and nights cool – especially in the West – protect your water supply from freezing. I know from experience there are few things less helpful than 5 gallons of solid ice to rehydrate working dogs in the field or brew a cup of morning coffee.
Closing Thoughts
Above all, be safe and have fun. Cherish the time and experience with your dogs, and don’t hesitate to take photos. With the extra effort you’ve invested in planning for the safety and well-being of your dogs, it’s sure to be the trip of a lifetime.
Seth Bynum is an accomplished veterinarian, writer and photographer as well as an avid outdoorsman. His veterinary practice is currently limited to canine reproduction, although he loves tackling sporting dog and internal medicine cases at his home base of Hayden Pet Medical Center. A devout follower of the “work to live” philosophy, Dr. Bynum keeps his clinic schedule as lean as possible to pursue his passion for bird dogs and upland hunting. He can be found afield with a fly rod or shotgun, accompanied by his crew of German Shorthaired Pointers and lugging around a camera.
With so much discussion about dog food, it’s easy to overlook hydration as an important part of the nutrition of canine athletes. It’s universally accepted that water is essential for life, but it’s often overlooked just how much this basic molecule drives physical activity in a working dog.
Water performs myriad functions in the bodies of performance animals, from lubricating joints to enhancing nutrient uptake in muscles. While dogs can skip many meals without any long-term ill effects, they won’t survive long with a water deficit. Indeed, hydration is a tightly regulated process that every cell in the body depends upon, with very little wiggle room for error.
For this reason, I often field questions from hunting dog owners who express concerns about the volume of water their hunting dogs consume in the field. The good news is most dogs do a great job of regulating their own hydration without any intervention on our behalf. Thirst is a natural response to changes in hydration status. It’s a reflex that dogs involuntarily respond to when the sensation arises, even if that doesn’t coincide with what we think the timeline should be for drinking. Despite our tendency to overanalyze, most thirsty dogs will drink what they need when the urge arises and clean, fresh water is available.
There are, however, a few reluctant or finicky drinkers out there. For the minority of dogs that would rather hunt than drink, you have to get creative in managing their hydration.
USE A SQUEEZE BOTTLE
First, efficient water management starts with water delivery. I strongly recommend that you train your hunting dog to drink from a squeeze bottle rather than a bowl. Not only does this delivery mechanism help conserve water, it’s much easier to keep tabs on how much volume your hunting dog has consumed. If you hunt in western states or other dry conditions, conserving every drop is important, particularly when the burden of carrying it at eight pounds per gallon is literally on your shoulders.
BAIT THE WATER
For particularly picky drinkers, it’s acceptable to bait the water with something highly palatable to entice these dogs to drink when they would otherwise decline. I often reach for FortiFlora from Purina as a safe and effective way to enhance the flavor of water. It’s a highly palatable probiotic that’s easy on both the gut and tastebuds without disrupting your dog’s electrolyte balance.
In a pinch, a light dusting of salted beef or chicken broth can be enough to encourage extra water consumption as well. Keep in mind that a light dusting is all that’s required, not a giant serving of salty bouillon in a dog that’s already behind on fluids.
FLOATING THEIR FOOD
Rehydration can also be achieved quickly and safely at the end of the hunt. Many hunting owners, myself included, employ the tactic of floating their dog’s food during the evening feeding. Simply add fresh water to their food bowl until the dry food is bobbing on top. This technique works well to conserve water in the digestive tract that would otherwise be utilized for rehydrating dry kibble. It also forces dogs to consume the water from the bowl in addition to the kibble they’re craving after a long day in the field.
ASSESSING HYDRATION IN THE FIELD
If you’re still convinced that your hunting dog is not keeping up with his hydration, there are a couple basic ways to easily assess hydration in the field that don’t require a laboratory. An easy and reliable means of checking hydration status is to take note of the frequency of urination and the color of the urine. Well-hydrated dogs urinate frequently, and the color is clear to slightly yellow tinged.
The skin pinch test can also be a reliable means of identifying a dehydrated dog. In a dog with adequate hydration, a pinch of skin between your thumb and index finger will quickly return to its normal position. The same tissue in a dehydrated dog will hold its tent or slowly retract. While easy to detect, keep in mind that a dog with a delayed skin pinch is already moderately dehydrated. In these cases, a rehydration plan should have already been implemented before reaching this state. Prevention is far and away the preferred tactic here. Keeping an eye on urine color and urination frequency will help your hunting dog avoid dehydration before it becomes an issue.
CLOSING THOUGHTS
It’s worth restating that the vast majority of hunting dogs instinctively seek out and consume the proper amount of water given a clean and abundant source along your hunt. Keep track of their consumption and reduce wasted water by using a squeeze bottle, and don’t hesitate to enhance the flavor of the water to encourage finicky dogs to consume a little more. Lastly, consider floating your dog’s post-hunt kibble in half a liter or more of fresh tepid water to safely rehydrate and enhance digestion in your bird dog. With these tips, the only thing they’ll thirst for is another day in the field.
Choosing a hunting dog can be a daunting task. Do you want or need a flushing breed or a pointing breed? A big bold brush buster or small pocket rocket? Male or female? A dog that runs big, or a close-in companion?
It gets even more complicated when you factor in the myriad of proven and dependable hunting dog breeds available from an array of breeders and trainers.
The good news? If you’ve done your homework, it’s hard to go wrong according to experts who cumulatively have seen, trained, trialed and tested thousands of hunting dogs.
Tom Dokken has been training dogs for more than 50 years. He’s written two books on retriever training, invented the famous Dokken Dead Fowl Trainer, created his own line of dog training products, and operates Dokken’s Oak Ridge Kennels in Minnesota, the largest gundog hunting and training kennel in the Midwest. www.dokkensoakridgekennels
Bruce Minard and his son, Neal Minard, of Beulah, Michigan, operate Hifive Kennels, a full time breeding, training and field trial kennel since 1996. The Minards have titled dozens of bird dogs including National Champions as well as the 2019-20 Purina Coverdog of the Year Award. The Minards train all pointing breeds but specialize in English Pointers and English Setters. www.hifivekennels.com
Paul McGagh is a premier professional Spaniel trainer and handler who has won nine National Championships including five Cocker National Opens, two Springer National Opens and two
Canadian Nationals. He’s the only person to win those three Nationals at least twice, and the only person to win the Canadian National with a cocker. Paul, who hails from Northern England, operates Glencoe Kennels in North Dakota and California. While Paul no longer takes on client dogs for training, he continues to compete and win at trials with his own dogs.
While these experts have never met and specialize in different types of hunting dogs, they share many fundamental beliefs and learnings that can contribute to finding the right hunting dog for YOU.
Bloodlines are the bottom line
Paul McGagh can trace his litters back to three bitches going back to 1991.
“I’m not saying there aren’t better lines out there, I’m just saying I know what I’m going to get,” Paul says.
And what he gets is consistently high performing Cocker Spaniels capable of winning National Championships, dogs that consistently put game in the bag, dogs that are good citizens in the house and kennel.
Tom Dokken suggests doing extensive research and buying the best bloodlines you can afford.
“A dog with a proven pedigree is likely to turn out in spite of your inexperience, lack of time, or shortcomings as a trainer,” Tom says. “We train every breed of dog. When the dog has the bloodlines, they also tend to develop a lot faster.”
Bruce Minard says a hunter can find a great dog in any breed if he or she looks hard enough.
“Just don’t buy a dog on a whim,” Bruce says. “Emotions take over and you may end up with a dog or a breed that’s not a good fit for you or your lifestyle. Do your research.”
Neal Minard adds that it’s critical to find the right breeder for the hunting you plan to do.
“Are you hunting ruffed grouse in New England or do you plan to spend most of your time hunting quail in Texas?” Neal asks. “If you can find a breeder that specializes in the type of hunting you going to do, it’s a great start.”
Finally, when selecting a bloodline and a litter, determine what health assurances or concerns may exist. Ask about OFA certification and understand the pedigree when it comes to eyes, hips, elbows or other hereditary diseases.
The Right Hunting Dog for YOUR Lifestyle
What you hunt, where you hunt, and where and how you live are important considerations when choosing your hunting dog.
“The first question you have to answer is what are you going to hunt?” Tom Dokken says. “If the answer is mostly waterfowl and some pheasant hunting, it’s hard to beat a Labrador or any of the retriever breeds. If you’re a die-hard quail hunter, now I’m shifting to the Pointers. If you plan to focus on ruffed grouse, I think of that classic English Setter.”
Tom adds that German Shorthaired Pointers are extremely popular in the Midwest – and across the country because they point, retrieve and tend to have a great personality. “What’s not to like?” Tom says.
Bruce Minard says there are probably more German Shorthaired Pointer kennels in his home state of Michigan than any other breed.
“When dogs come here for training, we don’t get into why the owner chose a certain breed,” Bruce says. “Our job is to train that dog to the best of our ability and to help that dog reach its potential. If you’re a ‘dual hunter’ – waterfowl and upland – you’ll probably go for a retriever. If you’re focused on upland hunting, you might go with a Brittany, English Setter, English Pointer, German Shorthair, German Wirehaired Pointer or other versatile dog. Any of those dogs can and will do the job.”
Tom Dokken says he doesn’t try to steer clients away from certain breeds.
“Instead, we give them information that will help with that important decision. I’d also recommend finding some mentors – people who have experience with different breeds and learning from them.”
And if you’re new to hunting or haven’t hunted with a certain breed, Neal Minard suggests finding and hiring a hunting guide.
“What better way to get your feet wet,” says Neal, who operates Grouse Ridge Guide Service when he’s not training dogs with his Dad. “First, it’s a great way to figure out if a certain type of hunting is for you. It’s also a way to see the different breeds in action – how they work and what they’re capable of. Find a guide that hunts with a breed you’re interested in. You’ll learn a lot in a hurry.”
Finding the right dog also can depend on the type of cover and terrain you’ll be hunting.
“In the Dakotas, for example, there’s a wide variety of cover,” Tom Dokken says. “You have everything from thick cattail sloughs and shelterbelts to the big grasslands and wide-open spaces. In the late season you’re often relegated to thick cover. You want a dog that will go in to the thick stuff and bust the birds. Again, retrievers and other flushing breeds like Cockers and Springer Spaniels are a great choice. But technology now makes it easier to use and find a pointing dog where you can’t see them. That GPS or a beeper collar can tell you the dog is on point 53 yards in that direction. Technology changes the game.”
Bruce Minard believes English Setters are more likely to jump into thick cover like blackberry and raspberry brambles. “A lot of English Pointers tend to like hunting the edges – they say ‘that’s a little too rough for me.’ But there’s always exceptions to that.”
Bruce says English Pointers tend to mature faster and develop faster.
“Your average winning English Setter may be 5-7 years old, where a lot of English Pointers start winning at 2.”
He adds that Hifive Kennels trains a lot of different kinds of Setters – some that work close at 25-45 yards, some that run at 300 yards.
“Buy a dog that wants to hunt with you. No matter how big a running dog he or she is, if they’re a team player you’ll never lose them.”
Considering a Cocker?
Paul McGagh says well-bred English Cocker Spaniels simply brighten your day.
“And if you don’t have a Cocker at least once in your life, you’re going to die of boredom,” Paul says.
While they come in a small package – Cockers (and Springers) can do it all in the field. They’re amazing bird finders, flush with enthusiasm and authority, are trained to sit or “hup” at the flush, and retrieve on command to hand. They also retrieve in water.
When asked to compare Cockers and Springers, Paul answers this way:
“I can bring a Cocker along maybe six months earlier than a Springer. The Springers I’ve done well with have tended to be quite sensitive and introverted. The best Cockers I’ve had have been extroverted. Because of that I can bring cockers along more quickly. I don’t like shy, sensitive Cockers and I don’t do as well with extroverted Springers. And, if you don’t mind being humiliated from time to time, Cockers might be a better choice – at least for me!”
Paul says he believes Spaniels are more adaptive to small yards and suburbia than a big-running Pointer. And while Cockers are excellent at hunting wild upland birds, Paul says they’re also a good choice for preserve hunting. “Spaniels are also terrific in the house when you start them out right.”
At the same time, Paul says Spaniels take some exercise. “They thrive on getting out every morning. But then, so do we. If you can exercise along with your hunting dogs — it’s good for everyone.”
Tom Dokken says being able to exercise a high-energy dog frequently, if not daily, is an important consideration.
“For most hunting dogs, just taking a walk on a leash is not enough of an energy release,” Tom says. “For example, if you live in the city you’ll need to find a place where you can run those dogs to keep them in shape mentally and physically.”
Paul points out that Cockers require some maintenance – especially if you hunt in fields with cockleburs, “stick-tights” and other seeds that fasten to coats of longer-haired breeds.
“I shave my Spaniels’ coats twice a year,” Paul says.
Likewise, Bruce Minard shaves his English Setters to cut down on coat maintenance.
Labrador Retrievers, German Shorthaired Pointers and other breeds with short coats tend to run relatively unscathed through the burrs and seed patches.
Size and gender?
Our experts agree that size and gender boil down to personal preference.
“The vast majority of dogs we train tend to live in the house,” Tom Dokken says. “Male or female, they’re part of the family and socialization and puppy training should start the day you bring the dog home. Obedience is what you accept. Unwanted behavior – if you accept that – is what you get. You have basic rules, black and white. If you’re consistent, and the family is consistent, you’ll get the obedience and behavior you want. ”
Tom says some people like small females, others like big males. The important part is keeping them in good body condition and at ideal weight. “In humans, you don’t see a lot of 250-pound long-distance runners,” Tom says.
Bruce Minard adds that proper nutrition for puppies and adults is paramount. “We feed and trust Purina,” he says. “Our dogs look great and perform well thanks to Pro Plan.”
A look inside the litter box
Once you’ve settled on a breed, done your research, and found a breeder and potential litter that suits you and your lifestyle – it’s time to pick a puppy.
Bruce Minard likes a bold puppy that comes right up and wants to play.
“I want a puppy that wants to be part of what you’re doing and wants to be with you constantly,” Bruce says. “That’s a dog that will hunt for you, and with you. It’s a natural bond. He doesn’t know why he wants to be with you, but he does, and that’s the one I’ll pick.”
Paul McGagh agrees and says he believes success in the field and at the field trial equates to three factors:
25 percent breeding
25 percent training
50 percent relationship
“There’s no question you need the right breeding, good training, good birds and all that. But in my opinion, the biggest part is the relationship. Make them love to be with you.”
The intangibles: Prey Drive, Bird Finding, Biddability.
Tom Dokken likens it to walking a tightrope.
“You like a dog that’s manageable, but one that also has that inherent prey drive,” Tom says. “It’s easier to get one under control than to try to give one something they don’t have to begin with.”
He likens it to the kid who tries out for the basketball team but doesn’t have the athletic ability, intensity or talent to compete. “That kid won’t be a starter. Even if he makes the team, he’ll be on the bench. When it comes to dogs, if they don’t have that prey drive, most of my clients will have trouble pulling that out.”
Tom says some clients have even insisted they don’t need a “really good dog” because they only hunt a few weekends each year.
Tom’s response?
“That’s like saying ‘I don’t go fishing that much so I don’t need a motor on my boat.’ Sure you can get by with a set of oars, but it’s not going to be a pleasurable experience! If you only hunt a few weekends each year, then you need a really good dog! You can take an average dog and hunt them a lot and they can turn out to be a pretty decent dog. If they don’t get out much, they need to be really good and well-trained when they do get out.“
First and foremost – The Foundation
No matter the breed, every great hunting dog needs a solid foundation. Even when a puppy has been well-socialized and has the right stuff – the nose, the desire, the temperament, and prey-drive – he or she still needs the basic building blocks and training regimen that make up the proper foundation and will last a lifetime. Think of building house on a shaky or shoddy foundation. It’s likely to fall down. Same goes for your hunting companion. Depending on the breed and whether it’s a flusher or pointer, teaching commands like sit, stay, come when called, heel, down, place, and kennel are part of that foundation. So is the trained retrieve. Advanced training requires a solid foundation.
“We recommend foundation training at a minimum,” Bruce Minard says. “We have a puppy foundation training program that typically starts when the pup is 6 months of age. That’s a key development time and it’s hard to get that time back. You can teach a dog to learn. With the proper foundation, even if you set it on the shelf, you can always go back.”
Tom Dokken agrees and again advocates doing research when selecting a pro trainer.
“A good pro should have a track record of setting a good foundation and be able to show you that foundation. If it’s done right, it’s always going to be there. Let’s say hunting season ends and you kind of let training slide during the off-season. If the dog has the proper foundation, it can be tuned up rather quickly. If you have no foundation whatsoever, you have nothing to work with – no matter the breed.”
Paul McGagh adds that the first six months of a puppy’s life is a special time.
“So important,” Paul says. “The habits you give them, the foundation you build carry on for a lifetime.”
He points to a litterbox full of 3-week-old English Cocker Spaniel puppies.
“We’ll keep one,” he says. “Six months from now I’ll have taught that puppy to sit, stay and retrieve with the place board. It will have that foundation and then I’ll start more serious training.”
Paul believes in taking every “event” and making it a training opportunity.
“When you feed them their Pro Plan, just don’t throw the food bowl down and walk away,” he says. “Have them sit. Wait. Make eye contact. Turn it into a training moment.”
Wild cards
Although Paul McGagh made a career by winning championships with Spaniels, a few years ago he added a talented English Pointer puppy named “Rye” to his stable of spaniels. Paul trained Rye to be steady to wing, shot and fall. He adds some pizzaz by sending in his Cockers for the flush and retrieve while Rye holds point.
“I must admit I had a real misperception about English Pointers,” Paul says. “I knew they were terrific bird finders, but I thought they were just raw-boned hunting machines without a lot of personality. I would say Rye has as much personality as any of my Spaniels and is just as good in the house. If I could only have one dog out here in the Dakotas hunting sharptail, it would be a Pointer.”
Likewise, Bruce Minard considers himself more of an English Pointer man.
“We have a Pudelpointer here right now that we’re training that’s really special,” Bruce says. “Yes, I’m an English pointer guy but I would LOVE to own that Pudelpointer.”
And Tom, after 50 years training dogs, still enjoys ‘training the trainer’ and working with owners of any breed.
“When we get to the latter stages of training, that’s when we bring the owners in. We set a standard and show the owners – here’s what your dog is capable of and here’s what you need to do to keep it that way.” Dogs are smart. It will take a dog about 15 minutes to figure out what they can get away with. The owner – and his or her family – need to take over the training and enforce the rules. The dogs will respect that. And you will have a dog that hunts for you!”
Editors Note – always check the latest regulations and dates on your respective state’s website. As of this posting on 9/13/24, the greater prairie chicken season in Kansas opens on 9/15/24 and closes on January 31, 2025. For hunting purposes, greater prairie chickens are mainly found in Nebraska, South Dakota, and Kansas. This post is on greater prairie chickens only – lesser prairie chickens are listed as threatened species, making it illegal to hunt them.
Prairie Chicken History and Habitat
To most wingshooters, the allure of hunting prairie chickens includes breathtaking landscapes and wide-open spaces interspersed with gentle, rolling hills. Once numbering in the millions across several states, prairie chickens have seen both their range and population diminish drastically. But the King of the Prairie still commands the spirit of the American West like no other. A prairie chicken taken on the wing is nothing short of a trophy.
Prairie chickens are now found only in isolated pockets spread throughout a handful of states including Nebraska, South Dakota, and Kansas. In Kansas, the Flint and Smoky Hills are considered traditional strongholds for the birds. Kansas went away from a split season for prairie chickens and now has a continuous season. September 15 signals the start, ending just over four months later on January 31. The daily limit is two, with a possession limit of eight.
During the early part of the season, the birds are not flocked up, but rather scattered throughout the prairie in singles and/or small groups. Prairie chicken habitat consists of open, flat country made up of sparse, native grasses, combined with rolling, elevated grasslands. The most common tactic to locate early-season chickens is to hunt behind big-ranging pointing dogs as they sweep across the land. Birds tend to hold, but not always; they are very skittish. Flushes of more than 50 yards are common. Often, there’s far more land than there are chickens.
Below is a four-pronged approach to hunting prairie chickens. Try these techniques and tactics and modify them depending on location and the type of habitat, and they may just help you harvest that most prized possession of the grassland plains.
Locate
Most hunters accidentally come across prairie chickens while hunting other upland birds. Chickens will either flush from their feeding or loafing areas or be observed going to and from such locations. During the early season, chickens feed mostly on insects that are still abundant. The birds will also take advantage of crops in nearby agricultural fields. If you can find where they’re feeding and ascertain where they’ll fly to and from, then you’ve taken a big step towards completing the puzzle.
After feeding, the birds will look for a place to loaf. Look for prairie chickens flying, using a unique combination of rapid wing beats followed by a long glide. Use their flight path to your advantage. This is where the use of binoculars will benefit the upland bird hunter. Glassing for birds is an overlooked tactic. The prime time to catch birds in the air is in the early to late morning or evening when they are flying to ridges, high points, hillsides, and thickets in search of cover. Chickens will often set up on high points of open terrain or on the shady side of a hill. These high-ground areas with knee-high or shorter grass provide them with security from predators. If you’re in thick “pheasant habitat,” you’re in the wrong place.
Prairie chickens will frequently inhabit the same general area year after year. Take notice of the location, as they will likely continue to use the spot, especially if it’s an established lek (also known as booming grounds, where males will gather to dance and boom). Hunting pressure may disperse them temporarily, but they will return if it’s an established location. This is where a mapping app comes into play and becomes invaluable in organizing collected data from the field.
Hunting prairie chickens calls for lots of walking across big expanses. Wingshooters should focus on working the ridges, but don’t overlook bowls.
Find Relief
Late summer can be quite warm in Kansas, so the focus on finding chickens should be to do what you and I would do when the temperature starts to climb: Find a bit of relief in the shade. Shade, whether in the form of hillsides, shrubs of red sumac, or on the shady side of slopes or light cover, are good places to focus when hunting. Look for a nearby water source, if possible.
Sneak In
Once you locate where prairie chickens tend to congregate, getting close enough to fire a shot is a difficult task. Look for features in the landscape and use the terrain to your advantage. Keep in mind that you want the wind in your face as well as the dogs’. Using the contours of the land, get as close as possible without being seen. Use the hillside slopes and any dips to mask your approach.
Maneuvering from two sides into the area where you suspect you’ll find chickens will increase your chances. If hunting with a partner, send them wide and have them approach from the other side of a hill or natural feature, such as a shelter belt, covering the side or back door. Keep a close eye on the dog, because when they go on point, chickens may or may not be as close as you think. Birds may be farther out than expected. Hunters should walk up quickly and be ready to shoot.
Stragglers
If everything goes as planned and chickens flush and shots are fired, reload quickly and stay alert. Chances are high there’s going to be a straggler or two waiting for the right moment to burst from the grass. Hunters often make the mistake and assume that all the birds have gone with the initial covey rise. It’s important to continue to watch the dog for signs that they’re still birdy. Walk slowly, zigzagging through the area, ready for a second delayed flush. It is in these times that hunters drop their guard and are startled with a second series of clucks and fluttering of wings.
Gear for Hunting Prairie Chickens
Prairie chicken hunting calls for lots of walking, which may include up and down hills. Carry a shotgun that is comfortable and light, if possible. Any gauge will suffice—12, 20, 16, or 28. Prairie chickens are delicate birds and fold quite easily. Recommended shot size includes 7 or 7 ½, with 6s as a follow up for those longer-distance shots. Early-season chicken hunts call for an improved cylinder or a modified choke. Birds will tend to hold longer in heavier cover, but those that have the high ground or the ability to see what’s coming for them will flush far. A good pair of broken-in boots and a vest that can carry an adequate supply of water for both hunter and dog are key ingredients in September and October.
Edgar Castillo is a retired law enforcement officer for a large Kansas City metropolitan agency, where he worked 26 years. He also served in the United States Marine Corps for more than a decade. Edgar’s passion lies in the uplands, where he documents his travels across the country or wherever the dirt roads take him, hunting open fields, walking treelines, and bustin’ through plum thickets in a never-ending search for wild birds in wild places. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @hunt_birdz
Outside-the-Box Dove Hunting Tactics to Get More Birds As the Season Progresses
By Edgar Castillo
Changing Methods after Opening Day
One warm day in late September, beads of sweat were pouring down my face like small streams winding down a mountainside. A widening stain on the back of my green tee shirt was growing rapidly. I had been standing underneath a small group of trees trying to find some shade. A light breeze stirred the air, but not enough to provide any comfort or dry my perspiration. The action was slow for a mid-morning dove hunt. I was already into the third week of dove season. Most dove hunters had vanished from the fields to which they flock in droves on opening day when the action is hot. As the days pass and doves grow educated, those fields slowly empty of hunters convinced that dove activity dies within the first two weeks.
I could see doves flying around the cut sunflower field, trying to figure out the best place to land to start gorging on seeds. As I stood there watching the speedy little flyers I asked myself, “Why am I standing here?” There were no other hunters around to help keep the doves moving. During the first few days of the season, hunters positioned around the outskirts of fields receive assistance from other hunters “pushing” doves around to avoid getting hit with a string of pellets and ending up wrapped in bacon on a grill. Dove hunters help keep the doves moving. Keeping birds flying is the key.
I thought that I could implement the same concept and move the doves around…and do it alone. I gathered some extra shells, dropped them into my vest, took a long, cold drink from my water bottle, and set out to walk up some doves.
Flushing Doves by Walking Them Up
It felt good to get out from under the trees and walk. My leather boots took to the cut rows of corn as they would during pheasant season, but this time it was for doves. I had traveled less than twenty yards when the ground exploded with that familiar whistling sound that dove wings make when they’re catching wind trying to gain elevation. I began lifting my shotgun in one fluid motion into position to fire. As with a covey of quail, I picked one bird, swung just past it, and pulled the trigger. What seemed like a puff of grey smoke was actually feathers gently catching the wind as they fell to the ground. I walked over to where I had marked the dove, picked it up, and smiled. I had been standing in my previous location for at least 45 minutes watching doves sail through the air out of range with no opportunity for me to shoot. I had changed the game, just by walking.
What I had failed to notice or even consider were that the doves were flying in undetected. These doves covertly sneaked in from the edge of the field and were probably feeding there for a while until I flushed them.
What had I missed? I think most dove hunters are too committed to the traditional style of dove hunting by standing in a field and waiting for doves to fly in. Of course decoys may be set up and positioning yourself in a prime location is paramount, but you’re still going to have to wait until the doves come to you. This is why I say that walking up doves can be just as effective as standing in a field and pass shooting.
This proactive approach has been highly effective for me the last couple of years. I often see dove hunters stop at the edge of a field, pause to ascertain where others are positioned, and start searching for that perfect spot for fast flying doves. Fast forward an hour or two and that same hunter may be walking out of the field shaking his head with disappointment. When I ask, “How’d you do?” he may reply, “Didn’t see any doves. Guess they’re not flying.” If he asks me the same question and I tell him I have a vest full of doves, he’ll likely ask how I did it. I simply respond, “I walked.” Hunters reluctant to leave their chosen spot waiting for doves to fly by when there is no action are missing out great opportunities.
The idea is pretty basic. Walk, along field edges or rows of grain, corn, beans, or sunflowers. Trek across a field until you come across feeding or roosting doves that take to the air as you arrive. If you think only a covey of bobs or Huns can provide excitement when they burst into the air, you haven’t given yourself an opportunity to enjoy the same experience with doves. Be ready, because the action doesn’t stop there. Your shot may cause other feeding doves to burst from the ground or nearby roosting birds to take flight offering multiple shot opportunities.
Bird Dogs and Doves
Don’t forget your dog. Yes, dog. Some dogs are able to point foraging doves on the ground. Bird dogs also help find downed birds. Dove season is a perfect time to get young dogs steady to wing and shot, gunfire, and retrieving. Hunting doves by walking them up offers good field work and practice for dogs prior to the regular upland season and helps them get into shape. Use this time to help prepare both pointing and retrieving dogs. Hunters should take precautions as temperatures can get warm or downright hot, making dogs fall victim to heat related illnesses. Carry enough water for you and your dog. Walking up doves allows for brief pauses in the action and to take solace in shade after walking rows of grain.
Doves frequently humble us by suddenly changing directions in midair just as we are about to pull the trigger. The same goes when they rise from the ground. Doves feeding in medium to heavy cover may hold tight and flush within shotgun range. At other times, they can be as skittish as those wily roosters we are accustomed to chasing later.
Don’t Just Sit There. Walk Up Doves and Work With Other Hunters.
Walking doesn’t have to be confined to flushing doves from rows of grain. It can mean walking them up along tree lines or from roosting areas or gravel sources. Doves will travel along rows of trees and field edges as well as across the middle of fields while using natural and manmade openings to fly between feeding fields and roosting areas. Hunters can improve their chances by mimicking doves and staying mobile. Follow the birds.
While a solo hunter can walk birds up effectively, sometimes working with other hunters helps keep the birds moving, offering opportunities for all to shoot. Post hunters in key spots around the field. Those walking should push some doves to them, offering the more traditional style of pass shooting. After walking up doves, hunters should return to their posts and wait. Give the doves a bit of time to regroup, regain their confidence, and fly back into the field. Most doves will take refuge in surrounding trees until they feel it’s safe to return to the field to feed. After a brief wait, hunters can start the process again.
The best thing about this tactic is that you don’t have to know the other hunters. If dove activity starts getting slow, approach other hunters and suggest this method. Alternate turns posting and walking.
Walking up and flushing doves is not an exact science. However, this unorthodox approach is a great way to hunt those grey rockets when you find yourself alone in a field or when only a few other hunters are present. I’m not saying you shouldn’t bring your bucket and decoys. Just know that if birds stop flying, it doesn’t necessarily mean there are no doves. Don’t just sit there! Step out of your comfort zone and walk up some doves.
Edgar Castillo is a retired law enforcement officer for a large Kansas City metropolitan agency, where he worked 26 years. He also served in the United States Marine Corps for more than a decade. Edgar’s passion lies in the uplands, where he documents his travels across the country or wherever the dirt roads take him, hunting open fields, walking treelines, and bustin’ through plum thickets in a never-ending search for wild birds in wild places. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @hunt_birdz
Timing matters – especially when it comes to training, feeding and caring for your hard-working canine athlete and hunting partner. Knowing what to do, when to do it and when to slow down or even stop can keep your hunting dog physically and mentally sound and even more productive in the field.
Timing is both an art and a science according to two experts who work with elite canine athletes on a daily basis.
Dr. Jennell Appel is an expert in canine rehabilitation. She specializes in postoperative rehabilitation, sports medicine, athletic conditioning, and injury prevention. Dr. Appel is based in Georgia during the winter and Wisconsin during summer months, but she’s always mobile with her Sports Medicine Mobile Clinic – a 28-foot unit equipped with state-of-the-art equipment combining the benefits of hydrotherapy and electrical stimulation for pain management. Dr. Appel founded SportVet Canine Rehabilitation in 2013 and provides services to professional retriever kennels and regional and national field trials throughout the year.
“Canine athletes take on stresses that are abnormal,” Dr. Appel says. She notes that hunting dogs can take a pounding while negotiating uneven, rough terrain, busting through heavy cover, leaping over obstacles and stopping on a dime. “The potential for injury is inevitable. It’s not a question of ‘if’ — it’s a question of when. Everything we can do to help prevent injuries is what we should do. That’s where timing plays a role with proper nutrition, proper conditioning, and proper treatment of injuries.”
Jessie Lee Richards owns and operates Full Throttle Kennel in Campbellsport, Wisconsin. She specializes in training retrievers for waterfowl and upland hunting and competes in AKC Hunt Tests and Field Trials. While Jessie has a passion for “full throttle” training and turning dogs into hunting machines, when it comes to training and timing, she believes a common mistake is getting in too big of a hurry. Especially when introducing new experiences and training concepts.
“Every dog is different,” Jessie says. “You need to adjust your pace according to the dog. Don’t rush. If you take the time to do it right the dog will learn and actually develop faster and you won’t have to go backwards and do it all over again.”
Dr. Jennell Appel – known as “Dr. J” to her many clients and friends – and Jessie Richards agreed to tackle various timing considerations from A (when to air dogs) to ZZZZ (allowing time to rest and recover) and everything in between.
To air is humane, to air frequently is divine
A typical day at Full Throttle Kennel starts by letting dogs out to air and eliminate at 6:30 a.m.
“We do chores at 7 and are doing yardwork by 8 and hit the field by 11,” Jessie says. “We are usually done with field work by about 4 p.m. and then feed. We air after feeding and do evening chores and get a bit of a break until 8 p.m., when we turn all the dogs out for another night airing.”
Jessie says that providing numerous opportunities for airing throughout the day plus the timing of the night airing is important. “It makes for a more comfortable dog and a cleaner kennel, which is healthier. When it comes to young puppies, we air even more frequently – probably twice as often. Same goes for airing while traveling with your hunting dog. Stop frequently – every 3-4 hours at a minimum.”
Dr. Appel says it’s important to know your dog and develop a routine. “Dogs that travel constantly are conditioned to eat and air immediately afterward. Whereas a pet dog could eat and perhaps wait an hour or more to eliminate. Know your dog and air accordingly.”
The BEST time for a Vet Check-up?
Make an appointment for your hunting dog at least a month before the hunting season starts.
“A thorough exam in advance of the season makes the most sense because it allows time to address any issues that may be detected,” Dr. Appel says. “For example, if we diagnose tick-borne disease or some other issue you can do something about that versus going to the vet three days before the season starts and finding an issue or illness that causes you to miss the opener. I also recommend getting your dog checked out at the end of the hunting season.”
Timing considerations when feeding hard-working canine athletes
Most experts recommend feeding a high protein, high fat diet like Purina Pro Plan Performance once per day – after exercise and at the end of the day to allow food to be digested and move through the gut before the next day’s hunt.
Dr. Appel agrees with that strategy but adds that timing of feeding can be very dog specific and her recommendation on whether to feed once or twice a day might depend on the dog.
“We definitely have research to show that having the least amount of stool bulk is best for performance dogs and elite canine athletes,” Dr. Appel says. “That means the more time that passes between a meal and a bout of exercise – the better. As a result, a lot of performance dogs are fed once a day. It’s efficient and effective. At the same time, I’ve seen some dogs that are difficult to keep weight on when fed once a day. For those dogs, it makes sense to feed a small amount in the morning and the main meal at the end of the day.”
Jessie Richards follows Dr. Appel’s recommendations and adds that she feeds most of her retrievers once per day except dogs that eat more than 4 cups of Pro Plan per day. “Say you have an active dog with a high metabolism that needs 5 cups of Pro Plan a day,” Jessie says. “With that amount of food, I’d typically feed one cup in the morning a couple hours before doing any work and then 4 cups in the late afternoon at least an hour after doing work.”
Float that kibble
Much like you would add milk to cereal for your breakfast, Dr. Appel advocates adding water to effectively “float” the Purina Pro Plan dry kibble at feeding time.
“Water helps move the food through the stomach quickly,” she says. “What we see in dogs not fed with water or moistened kibble – they will need water about 45 minutes after feeding and tend to really bulk up on too much water. We don’t want a bunch of water sitting in their stomach.”
Dr. Appel has strict timing rules for feeding before – and after — bouts of exercise.
“If you do feed a small amount in the morning, my rule is you need to wait two hours before they work or hunt,” she says. “This is based on pure physiology – transit time of food moving through the stomach is about two hours.”
Even more critical is allowing your dog to cool down after exercise and before feeding at the end of the day.
“I prefer waiting at least an hour after exercise to give the dog time to cool down before feeding,” she says. “What most people don’t realize is that the internal temperature of the dog can be 2-3 degrees higher than what the rectal temperature indicates. As soon as we put food in the dog’s body, the body temperature rises. That food is creating heat inside the body as food is being digested and broken down. That’s why it’s so important to allow the dog to cool down before feeding.”
Puppy time
Jessie Richards offers a “Puppy Head Start” program as part of her training regimen that introduces young dogs to water, birds, obedience and the “boom” and “bang” associated with guns and hunting.
“You want that first experience to be a great experience,” Jessie says.
With introduction to water, Jessie factors in the pup’s age and experience along with the weather.
“If it’s 80 degrees I might take the litter with Mom to the shallow water. When they see Mom get in the water, and me going in, they’re likely to go in – gradually, at their own pace, to join in the fun. Now, if it’s March or October and the water is cold – ugh – no way. That would not be a pleasant introduction.”
Jessie says proper socialization and exposure to all things outdoors help dictate timing. “Expose them to grass and gravel and bushes and other potentially scary things and surfaces. It’s also important to get that retrieving instinct up before you introduce them to water. Let’s say a dog comes in for training at 6 months and hasn’t been in the water. In that case, water isn’t the first thing I’m going to do with that dog. And when I do take them to water, if they don’t want to go in or balk – that’s OK. I’ll come back in a couple days and try it again.”
Likewise, introduction to birds and guns requires patience, pre-work and common sense.
“Before I introduce young dogs to birds, or guns, I’m going to get that retrieving instinct going,” Jessie says. “I’ll use a lot of bumpers. Bumpers aren’t as fun as feathers, and well-bred retrievers are going to like birds. So, we tend to use way more bumpers than birds.”
When the retrieving instinct is up, and the dog is loving bumpers, and a few birds – it’s generally a good time to introduce the gun at a safe distance.
“Our dogs and even puppies are used to hearing guns and noise in the distance,” Jessie says. “Key word here is ‘in the distance.’ You want puppies and young dogs to associate the sound of guns with fun and retrieving. It’s what they love to do.”
Typically Jessie will position an assistant with a cap gun or blank gun in the distance. Jessie has the assistant fire the blank gun at the arc of the throw while the dog is en route to the retrieve.
Time for training and obedience
Training starts the day you get your puppy home, Jessie says.
“Let them be a puppy, but they need to know and understand rules and boundaries. I also believe in introducing pressure and corrections at an early age. By pressure, that’s NOT punishment or pain. It’s that little tug on the flat collar when you say “come” or “here” that puts a tiny bit of pressure on the neck. It’s teaching them to sit and wait at the crate, not leaping out when you open the door. It’s leash pressure, on and off, and teaching them to heel. It’s putting your knee up to block jumping up. That’s how they learn and once they learn, it’s up to you to enforce the rules. If you only enforce rules some of the time, it’s not fair to the dog.”
Time to warm up
Think of a relief pitcher in baseball who goes to the mound without any warm-up tosses and tries to throw a fastball. At best he’s going to get clobbered. At worst, he’s going to hurt his arm.
Most hunters are accustomed to dropping the tailgate, opening the crate and releasing the dog – who is more than happy to hit the ground running. Dr. Appel would highly recommend a little warm-up before going full throttle. “Warming up is really important,” she says. “It’s critical to bring blood flow to all the soft tissues consistently. Think about a dog sitting in the crate on the drive to a hunt, not moving. The heart is supplying blood to the internal organs, but what’s needed is blood flowing to the limbs, the muscles, the external tissues. Before any strenuous exercise I recommend a consistent, fast-paced walk on lead for 5-10 minutes. That would be a good warm-up, before hunting or testing or trialing – with blood going to the extremities.”
Once warmed up, the dog is ready and better prepared to work.
Dr. Appel says taking time to properly condition hunting dogs in the weeks and months before hunting season not only enhances performance, but it can also help reduce or even prevent some injuries.
“It’s not just a matter of being able to get through the hunt or field trial, but a well-conditioned dog at ideal body weight is less likely to suffer injuries. When the body works hard, stresses increase. When muscles are fatigued, the joints and tendons take on more of the stress. Muscles are not supporting the joints as well as they did at maximum capacity. This can lead to tendonitis and other soft-tissue injuries. There’s also fatigue mentally that affects a dogs’ ability to perform. A dog that’s not properly conditioned gets hotter faster. Heat impacts the brain. A hot dog is not thinking clearly. In addition, smelling and scenting capability decreases.”
Time to recover
“Dogs are tough,” Dr. Appel says. “They love to work and love to hunt and tend to want to keep going. By the time a dog is actively showing signs of injury or lameness there’s probably already a significant issue that needs to be addressed.”
Dr. Appel recommends resting the dog for 24 hours at the first sign of an issue and seeking veterinary care if there’s little or no improvement.
“A common mistake is not giving dogs enough time to heal,” she says. “People are anxious and if the situation looks to be improving, they’re eager to go right back to work. The problem is, when a dog is injured, the body will try and find ways to compensate for that injury, shifting weight to other limbs. Now the problem gets worse because that shifting can cause breakdown and injury to other limbs, joints or areas of the body.”
Time to see a specialist
Soft-tissue injuries to tendons, muscles and ligaments are among the hardest issues to resolve.
“Typically, we can manage pain associated with joint injuries and inflammation, but blood flow is needed to heal chronic soft tissue injuries and that takes time,” Dr. Appel says. “Tendonitis might take from one to three months to resolve, while you’re looking at six to nine months for something like an Achilles tendon.”
Dr. Appel recommends finding a certified sports medicine veterinarian with training in rehabilitation and access to technology like diagnostic ultrasound and MRI. Once a proper diagnosis has been made, a rehab plan can be initiated.
“Again, I go back to soft tissue injuries that can come and go. Your dog may not be exhibiting lameness, but that tendon is still healing,” she says. “You have a dog that looks normal but is still healing and that’s where a professional expert can help guide you through timing and the rehab process.”
ZZZZ – Time to Rest
Jessie Richards believes all dogs need a day off once in a while.
“Just like people need time off from work, I think dogs can benefit from a break or a weekend off,” she says. “It’s also important to keep training sessions short and sweet – especially with puppies. You always want to try and end on a positive note. Keep them wanting more.”
Dr. Appel adds that in addition to rest, consideration should be given regarding too much exercise for puppies and potential growth plate issues.
“There’s a tendency to want puppies to mature and progress faster than ever to compete – especially in field trials,” she says. “The more water work you can do with your puppy, the better. Swimming helps improve core strength and creates the least amount of stress on their joints.”
Time to seek professional help?
Going to a pro – either a professional trainer like Jessie Richards or an expert in canine rehabilitation and sports medicine like Dr. Jennell Appel — can help your hard-working dog reach its potential and enjoy more productive and healthy days in the field.
“The average person who works 40 hours a week doesn’t have the time, the equipment, the grounds or the experience a good pro trainer should have,” Jessie says. “It’s an investment in your dog, for sure. But a dog that’s worked a couple times a day is typically going to advance faster and do better than a dog that’s worked a couple times a week.”
And if your dog has an injury or illness that requires advanced diagnostics and the expertise of a certified sports medicine / canine rehabilitation veterinarian– your veterinarian should help you find one.
“The professional with that training and experience can help develop your rehabilitation plan and guide you through that process,” Dr. Appel says.
For more information about Full Throttle Kennel and Training Tips from Jessie Richards, go to www.fullthrottlekennel.com
For more information about SportVet Mobile and Dr. Jennell Appel, go towww.sportvetmobile.com
