The islands stretching north through the Salish Sea reside in some of the most salmon-rich water in the world, hosting all five species of Pacific salmon and the Orcas who depend on them. They also happen to have some incredibly talented brewers and cider makers, serving up well-presented traditional ales and more creative takes on craft beverage. The following is by no means a comprehensive guide to beer and cider in the islands, but offers a picture of the delicious things that can be found while island hopping off the American and Canadian west coast.
Island Hoppin’ Brewery – East Sound, Orcas Island, Washington
Island Hoppin’ Brewery is a great refuge for beer drinkers perusing the San Juan Islands. Tucked away on the edge of East Sound, the clientele is a healthy mix of island locals and tourists stopping by for a taster flight or quick pint. Those searching for a solid West Coast-style IPA, Kolsch-style ale, or strong red ale are in luck. The Elwha Rock IPA is a great example of a modern West Coast IPA with bright floral notes and the kick necessary to satisfy even the most ardent hop heads. Coming in at 6.3% ABV and 100 IBUs, it’s a great beer for unwinding after pedaling around the island or a day fishing for Chinook off the coast. For those looking for something a little lighter in both color and body, look no further than the K-Pod Kolsch, named after a resident pod of Orcas. The bready malt character and low hop bitterness balance for an easy-drinking warm weather beer. At 5.2% ABV and only 18 IBUs, it’s a great choice for folks who aren’t so into the ‘bigger is better’ IPA scene. Looking for something to warm the belly and put a smile on your face? Turn to the Old Madrona Imperial Red Ale, Island Hoppin’s flagship beer and one hell of a take on the Imperial Red style. The 8.3% ABV and full body make the Old Madrona perfect for the cooler weather we’re seeing now – sweet (but not too sweet), malty, and strong enough to cut the fog. The bartenders are friendly, knowledgeable, and can also serve you up some local smoked salmon or a tasty, salty landjaeger sausage while you kick back and enjoy island time.
San Juan Island Brewing – Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, Washington
San Juan Island Brewing holds the title for largest production brewing in the San Juan islands. With the ability to lager, they’re also unique in their own right. With a wide variety of offered styles, SJIB is a great stop for folks meandering between islands – Friday Harbor is a major ferry stop and jump-off point for exploring Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas islands. The Bull Kelp ESB stands out, with a biscuity malt character and moderate hop bitterness. The 5.5% ABV, 35 IBU ESB is a great example of a Northwest brewery giving new life to a traditional English style. – it was even voted Washington’s best ESB at the 2018 Washington Beer Awards. For those looking for a supremely approachable beer, the Yachter’s Daughter Helles Lager does the trick. The light body and dry finish are perfect for those warm late summer evenings while sitting on SJIB’s outdoor deck or on a boat deck anywhere. Coming in at 5.0% ABV and 16 IBUs, you can put back a few and still cast a line. The food is on point, with well-appointed pizzas for 1 or 2 and salads that are sure to please. Unfortunately, the front of house staff – including the bartenders – were unable to answer basic stylistic questions or offer general information on the brewhouse or brewery. Still worth a stop for the ESB and various lagers on tap, just don’t expect any enlightening information on SJIB’s beer or brewing process.
Salt Spring Island Ales – Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
Salt Spring Island resides just off the southeast coast of Vancouver Island, in the southern Gulf Islands. Tucked up on a hillside outside of the island’s main town, Ganges, Salt Spring Island Ales offers a breath of fresh air for those looking for something other than a simple amber or pale. The brewery is only able to offer a tasting room due to licensing restrictions, but visitors are able to try as many beers as they please before making a bottled selection from the cooler. The most memorable beers were unique twists on common styles – a golden ale brewed with heather and an earl grey IPA. The Heather Ale features very low hop bitterness as an ode to the unhopped, heathered ales drank by Scotish Picts before heading into battle 4,000 years ago. The heather imparts light floral aromas, while a mild honey sweetness keeps you coming back for more. At 5% ABV and 15 IBUs, the Heather Ale is the perfect companion for sitting in the woods while you contemplate which trail to take. The Earl Grey IPA is a decidedly English IPA with the addition of bergamot (which is a citrus, believe it or not) to add additional complexity to the crisp hop bitterness and malty sweetness. The 7% ABV is higher than many English IPAs, but makes it a great addition for late nights at the campsite. SSIA’s bucolic setting couldn’t get much more picturesque, and the personable, knowledgeable bartenders make sure that you know what you’re drinking.
Salt Spring Wild Cider – Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
The only cidery on this list, Salt Spring Wild Cider makes cider on par with the best in North America. Set back off the road between farmland and coastal forest, the cidery is a great place to spend a lazy afternoon. While their ‘bone dry’ Dry Cider isn’t the driest we’ve ever tasted, the crisp finish and mild honey notes make this a can’t-miss option for true cider lovers (6.7% ABV). The pear ‘cider’ – actually a perry – is incredibly accessible and incredibly tasty. No headache-inducing sweetness here – this dry perry has a wonderful fruity nose and a solid 7.4% ABV. On the more inventive end of things, the Bitter Orange Rosemary Cider is a beast of its own. The addition of orange bitters, fresh rosemary, and Legend Distilling Manitou Orange & Sumac Liquer make this one of the most unique, delicious ciders we’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking (7% ABV). Looking for something woody? Barrel-aged cider is hard to find, and SSWC’s Barrel Aged Muscat cider sets the bar high for others looking to set their cider on oak. The mouthfeel is slightly creamy, and the muscat wine that previously resided in the barrel comes through on the nose. A great compliment to pasta and fish, the Barrel Aged Muscat has to be tried to understand how good cider can really be (7% ABV). The food selection is wonderful and makes a spot-on addition to the amazing ciders found at SSWC.
Tofino Brewing Company – Tofino, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
The spot to be after surfing for spending a day roaming Pacific Rim National Park, Tofino Brewing Company is brewing solid ales and lagers for the outdoor set. From their flagship Tuff Session Ale (5% ABV) to the venerable Kelp Stout (6% ABV) and the awesomely original Spruce Tree Ale (6.5% ABV), TBC does it right. With offerings in both cans and bottles, there are plenty of options for things to take with you back to the van. The Spruce Tree Ale is a wonderful take on the spruce ale, offering a medium body and resinous hop finish. The spruce character isn’t in your face, but rather compliments the ale’s otherwise juicy character. Folks looking for something easy drinking and lower in ABV should look to the Blonde Ale and Tofino Lager, clocking in at 5.5% and 5% ABV respectively. If you’re in the mood for hops, the Hoppin’ Cretin IPA is a killer West Coast-style IPA with generous amounts of hops added throughout the brewing process and a brilliant, dry finish (7.5% ABV). Hungry? Pick up some of the salty, crunchy bar snacks or an order of local smoked salmon. You are in BC, after all. Do yourself a favor and stop by TBC if you find yourself anywhere near Vancouver Island. Even if you don’t surf or fancy rainforest hiking, the beer is worth the drive.
Next time you find yourself with time to kill in the San Juan Islands or on Vancouver Island, take a few minutes to breathe and grab a slow pint. Island time doesn’t give a damn about a New York minute.
