Wild Food – Gordon Hamersley
Last fall my friend Jon and I hunted during the throes of a stormy New England day: 37 degrees, persistent rain, and driving wind. We didn’t love it, but Jon’s springer pup didn’t mind at all. The New Hampshire covert we were hunting was dense and dripping with the pelting rain. A narrow game trail cut through stands of thick alders that at times made it seem like we were hunting in a tunnel. We walked single file: I in the lead as it was my turn to shoot with Finley quartering to both sides of the trail. Things were slow in a spot where we usually find birds. We were commiserating that they might have picked up and left before the storm, when Fin popped a bird up. The cover was so stupidly thick it flew right at me, and I ducked as it knuckleballed over my head and down the trail. I let off one and then the other barrel as the woodcock vanished into the dark tangle.
When it comes to gunning, I am cack-handed and clumsy at best, which always has me searching for an excuse after missed shots. Still, I was amazed I had missed such an easy going-away shot. This time I had no excuse. Then I looked down at my gun barrels and noticed a fresh splattering of woodcock chalk (what others might call bird shit).
“That’s one impressive dollop!” said Jon. “That pile is so big I don’t know how you could see down your barrels.”
I’d found my excuse.
The incident still stands as the ultimate insult from a woodcock, never to be equaled.
The American woodcock has a long list of disparaging nicknames. With colloquialisms like timberdoodle, bogsucker, hokumpoke, and mudsnipe, this little bird deals with a lot of verbal bullying. In contrast, I find woodcock to be a glorious, quirky, and especially succulent addition to the table. These wonderful little birds deserve our best culinary efforts. The following is a recipe that hopes to show the proper respect for such a worthy quarry.
Farro has an addictive, nutty taste and is one of three earthy tones in this dish, along with maitake mushrooms and the woodcock. Maitake (or hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms grow in northern temperate forests, but it is not uncommon to find them in Southeastern states. Where I live in the Northeast, they are usually found in late summer growing at the base of maple and oak trees. These days you can also find them in many grocery stores and farmers’ markets. Maitake are full-flavored with a mild heat and work well with other strong flavors. As with all mushrooms, give them a quick rinse to remove excess dirt and woody debris before cooking. If maitake aren’t around, try using dried porcini instead or whatever mushrooms you have on hand that fit the bill. Again, strong assertive flavors give the dish a distinctive, earthy boost.
Hunters who aren’t fans of eating woodcock are likely overcooking their quarry. Left in the pan too long they taste livery, tough, and dry. Baste the birds with the pan juices and butter until the tiny breasts are just cooked, and you have one of nature’s finest fares. Remember: All proteins continue to cook after turning off the heat, so err on the side of caution.
Serves: 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Ingredients:
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
4 whole woodcock, ready to cook
1 medium leek, washed and diced
5-6 ounces maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms, rinsed in cold water, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped
1 cup farro
½ cup white wine
4 cups game bird or chicken stock
1 cup spinach, washed
¾ cup parmesan, grated plus more for garnish
Salt and black pepper to taste
In a large skillet, heat half the olive oil and half the butter. Sprinkle the woodcock with salt and pepper and brown them well on all sides, basting as they cook, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the birds to a warm platter and reserve.
Add leek, maitake, garlic, and thyme to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 5 to 6 minutes until leek softens and mushrooms are tender.
Add farro and stir well. Add white wine and cook until wine is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and continue cooking until farro is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 25 to 35 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper.
When ready to serve, add spinach and moisten with a touch of stock or water if dry. Add remaining butter and parmesan, stirring gently as the spinach wilts and the farro reheats. Nestle woodcock into the farro mixture, season with salt and black pepper, and continue heating for a few more minutes.
Spoon the farro mixture into bowls and top each with a woodcock sprinkled with additional parmesan.
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